
I don't blame you if you have not heard of "Momofuku". I didn't have a clue myself until a month ago.
Momofuku is a restaurant group based in the East Village in New York City. Momofuku means 'lucky peach' in Japanese; David Chang, the head chef and owner, is Korean American.
I have always been slow in catching up with the latest hype about restaurant cookbooks. I often find their recipes are far too complicated to cook at home (unless I have a sous chef and a team of kitchen hands to assist me at home!). However, I was intrigued by several Momofuku recipes adapted by fellow bloggers including Bo Ssäm from A Table For Two and - Cereal Milk Pannacotta , Chicken and Egg from Trissalicious.
I went on to purchase a copy of the cookbook and made their Fried Chicken the following day. Did Momofuku live up to the hype? No one said it better than Anthony Bourdain:
Anthony Bourdain - "The breathless hype is true. His food is as good and as exciting as everyone says it is. David Chang has opened up a new direction in dining and cooking. With this troika of Momofukus, he changed the whole game. Scary-smart, funny, and ambitious, the wildly creative Chang is the guy all chefs have got to measure themselves by these days."
I really like Momofuku as a book. It's a very good read. Never in my life that I have read so much into a cookbook. It has documented the struggle and the meteoric rise to stardom of Momofukus and David Chang. The emotions are very raw, lots of frustrations, lots of F words but by reading the book, I felt I have been through the Momofuku journey with him.
I particularly like his closing chapter:
David Chang - "But that's all behind us. We're going to open more restaurants, we're going to work constantly to improve the restaurants we have now, and we're going to keep training new talent and trying to come up with new concepts. We're going to keep our heads down and try to be the most disciplined, knowledgeable, and accountable cooks ever."
"And me, I'm burnt out. Fried. At some point "me" evolved into "we." My life stopped being mine and the restaurants' needs replaced any I might have had. I got into the kitchen to get away from sitting at a desk and having to be nice to people, and here I am with a calendar full of events and meetings and food conferences. I opened a noodle bar so I wouldn't have to deal with the expectations of the starred restaurant world and that plan fell flat on its face (Living up to high expectations sucks.)
"But for all that, I know this: I am one very lucky bastard."

Momofuku Fried Chicken with Octo Vinaigrette Recipe
(Adapted from Momofuku by David Chang and Peter Meehan)
Serves 2 to 4
David Chang - "I love, love, love, love, love fried chicken. I order it like a side dish at restaurants or when I get takeout. I will eat the worst fried chicken and love it.
We came up with this dish at the new Noodle Bar, once we had moved up the block. We tried different methods. Buttermilk soaking - the traditional southern way - was okay, but it didn't amplify the natural flavor of the chicken, which took a long time to cook in the fryer. Kevin and Scott experimented with some batters and coatings, all of which were tasty, but none of which was right.
We were using a crazy expensive and delicious chicken - the creed name is poulet rouge - and I wanted to strip away as much excess flavouring as possible. That's when we settled on this method: steam the chicken first, just until it's cooked, then use the fryer just to crisp and brown the outside. We came around to that method in part because of the new kitchen and the new Noodle Bar. At the original Noodle Bar we had just about the worst equipment on the planet: one oven in the basement in which everything was roasted and one tiny countertop fryer that fit maybe two chicken legs at a time. At the new Noodle Bar we have a fancy oven that allows us to cook the chicken at 160F in a steam-filled chamber and also a big deep fryer in which we could probably fry an entire baby pig.
But it isn't just a gear-driven approach: frying the chicken this way means the chicken spends less time in the oil, so it has a really clean flavor, and because of the sugar in the brine, it browns deeply - quickly. Take it out, chop it up, douse it in octo vin, and there it is: fried chicken dinner."

Ingredients4 cups lukewarm water
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup kosher salt
One 3- to 3 1/2-pound chicken, cut into 4 pieces - 2 legs, 2 breast halves with wings attached (I used 8 drumsticks)
4 cups
grapeseed or other neutral cooking oil
Octo Vinaigrette (Recipe follows)

Method- Combine the water, sugar, and salt in a large container with a lid or a large freezer bag, and stir until the sugar and salt dissolve. Add the chicken to the brine, cover or seal, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and no more than 6.
- Set up a steamer on the stove. Drain the chicken and discard the brine. Put the chicken in the steamer basket (if you are using a stacking Chinese-style bamboo steamer, put the legs in the bottom level and the breast on the top). Turn the heat to medium and set the lid of the steamer ever so slightly ajar. Steam the chicken for 40 minutes, then remove it from the steamer and put it on a cooling rack to cool. Chill it in the refrigerator, preferably on the rack, for at least 2 hours or overnight.
- Take the chicken out of the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before you fry it.
- In a deep skillet, heat enough oil for the chicken to be submerged to 375F. Fry the chicken in batches, turning once, until the skin is deep drown and crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove to a paper towel-lined plate to drain.
- Cut the chicken into a few pieces: cut the wing from the breast, cut the breast in half, cut through the knee to separate the thigh from the drumstick. Put in a large bowl, toss with the vinaigrette, and serve hot.

Octo Vinaigrette Recipe(Adapted from Momofuku by David Chang and Peter Meehan)Makes about 1 cup
From Kevin
Pemoulie, creator of this vinaigrette, one of the world's finest condiments and food-
improvers - a sauce so good it makes anything taste better:
"So, the "octo vin" is how she's formally known. I think of it as an interesting flip-flop of a traditional vinaigrette in that the ratio of vinegar to oil is reversed. It's designed to hold up to the char of the octopus and to dress the seaweed, which, unlike lettuces, requires a very forceful, pungent sauce. I wish my prom date had worn a pungent dress.If we used this to dress a salad, it would probably be too strong. However, it is really f**king delish with meats: grilled or fried. We served it once with whole fried sole. We've served it with grilled hamachi collar. And, obviously, the Fried Chicken."
Ingredients2 tbsp finely chopped garlic
2 tbsp chopped peeled fresh ginger
1 fresh bird's eye-
chile, seeded and chopped
1/4 cup rice wine vinegar
1/4 cup
usukuchi (light soy sauce)
2 tbsp
grapeseed or other neutral oil
1/4 tsp Asian sesame oil
1 1/2 tbsp sugar
Fresh ground black pepper
Method
- Combine the garlic, ginger, chile, vinegar, soy, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, sugar, and a few turns of black pepper in a lidded container and shake well to mix. This will keep in the fridge for 4 to 5 days, and is good on everything except ostrich eggs, which is really more the ostrich's fault than the vinaigrette's.
Note: When preparing the garlic and ginger for this recipe, make sure to take your time and work your knife skills: small, even pieces of garlic and ginger (not the mush that a garlic press or a ginger grater creates) really make a difference. Big bits of raw garlic can have an acrid sting: chunks of ginger will deliver a too-spicy blast can be unpleasantly fibrous.
