Deconstructed Timarisu (Espresso Granita, Mascarpone Sabayon, Hazelnut Ricotta Cake) + Dietmar Sawyere's Table by The River Cookbook Review

Dietmar Sawyere is the executive chef and director of Berowra Waters Inn (and Ad Lib Bistro), set on a tranquil site by the river, accessible by boat and seaplane only. Table by The River is his first cookbook in which he combines a deep culinary understanding (not surprisingly, since he has a library of 900+ cookbooks!) with innovative and classic cooking techniques to create food full off intense flavours and textures. His book provides recipes for those who love to cook at every level of expertise.

Canape of 'Eggs and Chips'

Sugar-Cured Salmon, Spiced Avocado, Crisp Tortilla

Table By The River is not just about great food and great recipes. It is also a good read on topics like: What makes a successful restaurant? Or the History of the Inn, his view on remote restaurants and the Rise and Fall of Haute Cuisine. Food as Art is an other key part of his book, his restaurant and in fact his life.

Berowra Waters Inn

Buttered-Poached White Asparagus, Quail Egg Croustillant, Watercress

This book is divided into twelve chapters. In essence each chapter represents a new course from the amuse gueule 'taste tickler', through crustaceans, vegetables, fish, soup, poultry and game birds and meats to cheese, desserts and petit fours.

Yabbie Bisque, Crushed Peas, Pecorino, Prosciutto, Basil , Mint

Organic Pork Belly, Lemon-Braised Mud Crab, Gratinated Pumpkin Puree

As with many cookbooks written by top chefs, many of the recipes in this book will be difficult to prepare in a domestic kitchen, however not impossible. I am actually quite sceptical regarding 'fine dining top chef cookbooks' as the recipes are often complicated and lengthy. I am pleasantly surprised by this Table by The River Cookbook: the recipes are surprisingly doable. I am most delighted by the dessert section. Most desserts consist of a relatively few number of components. These components become an amazing fine fair when combined together, but are still very good when made and served on their own.

Coffee Parfait, Liquid Caramel, Vanilla Salted Popcorn

Iced Chocolate Bon Bons

As I flipped through the cookbook, I began to fall in love with his recipes. The flavours are fresh and clean. A lot of clever techniques and enticing flavour combinations tempt me to try out the recipes in no time. This Deconstructed Tiramisu is the first recipe I made from this book and I know it will not be the last. This recipe has very few steps for each component and the end result is impeccable and stunning. It is a great testament to his food philosophy.

Espresso Granite, Mascarpone Sabayon, Hazelnut Ricotta Cake Recipe
(Adapted from Table by The River by Dietmar Sawyere)
Makes 8 servings

Ingredients

Espresso Granita:
500 ml (17 1/2 fl oz) warm espresso coffee
150 g (5 oz) sugar
50 ml (1 3/4 fl oz) Khalua or Tia Maria liqueur

Mascapone Sabayon:
1/2 vanilla pod
200 g (7 oz) mascarpone
3 organic eggs, separated
65 g (2 oz) caster sugar
40 ml (1 1/2 fl oz) frangelico liqueur
Pinch of salt

Hazelnut Ricotta Cake:
250 g (9 oz) butter
250 g (9 oz) sugar
8 organic eggs, separated
250 g (9 oz) ground hazelnuts
250 g (9 oz) ricotta
Zest of 5 lemons
65 g (2oz) plain flour
Pinch of salt
To complete:
Fresh raspberries

Method:

1. For the Espresso Granita: Dissolve the sugar in the warm coffee and add Kahlua or Tia Maria. Pour into a tray and place in the freezer. After about an hour, using a fork, stir up the freezing coffee. Repeat this stirring every 30 minutes for 3 hours until frozen coffee crystals are formed. Once the mixture is thoroughly frozen, fork it up again and allow the flakes to 'dry' in the freezer for a couple more hours.
2. For the Mascarpone Sabayon: Scrape the vanilla seeds onto the mascarpone and beat in, taking care not to overwork. Place the 3 egg yolks, sugar and Frangelico in a bowl, place over a saucepan of warm water on the heat and whisk to a ribbon-stage sabayon. Off the heat, keep whisking until the mixture cools. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites with a pinch of salt until they form stiff peaks. Fold the sabayon into the mascarpone, then carefully fold in the whipped egg whites. Store in the fridge until needed.
3. For the Hazelnut Ricotta Cake: Preheat the oven to 180C (350F). Beat together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the egg yolks one at a time and beat well. In a separate bowl combine gently the hazelnut meal, ricotta and lemon zest. Add the egg-butter mixture to the ricotta mixture with the flour and fold in until well mixed. In a clean bowl, whip the egg whites with a pinch of salt until they form stiff peaks and then fold into the cake mixture. Pour the batter into a 15cm (6 in) buttered cake tin or individual tins and bake in the heated oven for around 35 minutes until firm to touch.
4. To complete: For each serving, spoon some granita into a demitasse glass. Spoon some mascarpone sabayon into another glass. Dust the cake with icing sugar and place a slice alongside the two glasses.

Thank you to New Holland Publishers for sending me the review copy.

Table By The River By Dietmar Sawyere

"If a successful meal is the sum of many parts, then every element comes together in ‘A Table by the River’. A culinary journey through the landscape of food, the book celebrates the wonderful food of the internationally acclaimed and award-winning chef, Dietmar Sawyere. He brings together produce and classic cooking techniques to create food full of tastes and textures. The recipes are clearly explained and written and are matched with the most appropriate wines.

The chapters follow the stages of a meal from the amuse gueule (a single, bite-sized hors d'œuvre) through crustaceans, vegetables, fish, soup, poultry and game to meat, cheese and petit fours. Throughout, Dietmar muses on his life in food, the workings of a restaurant - from the waitstaff to restaurant critics - and the experiences that brought him to this latest restaurant - Berowra Waters Inn."

Published: November 2010
RRP: $49.95 (available on New Holland Publishers)
ISBN: 9781741108699
Format: Hard Cover
Pages: 272