Duck a L'Orange and Tony Bilson's Fine Family Cooking - Book Review

A timeless classic that will never go out of date.

This Fine Family Cooking cookbook by Tony Bilson - named the Godfather of Australian Cuisine - was first published 15 years ago. However, it is still very relevant for today's cooking because it provides hints and insights into classical cooking techniques and dishes that are served by many of today's cooks.

300 recipes were carefully chosen to suit the home cooking environment. The different sections in the book cover all bases from daily cooking for the family to creating fine fair for guests. No dish is too complicated, making it possible to create restaurant quality dishes at home.

'The Wine Merchant', a chapter dedicated to cooking with wine, is one of the chapters that I love. From Chicken in Riesling to Boeuf Bourguignonne, I can see myself cooking a lot of dishes from this section.

How can girls not like 'The Patisserie' section? It covers a variety of great desserts, from the basic Creme Anglaise, Crepes and Mousse to the more advanced Pastries, Cakes and Breads. Classics like Creme Brulee, Souffle and Bavarois are not neglected.

'The Fruiterer' and 'The Greengrocer' are all about fruits and vegetables. These sections create awareness of seasonal produce and what best to do with them. Tart of Spring Vegetables, Gratin of White Asparagus, Creme Renverse a L'Orange and Grilled Figs with Marc de Bourgogne are the stand outs.

Pomme Anna (as seen on Masterchef)

'The Fish Merchant', 'The Butcher', 'The Poulterer' and 'The Game Supplier' see Tony Bilson preaching the importance of getting to know your local suppliers. These are the chapters that are full of wonderful recipes that will help you with your planning for family dinners and party menus. From posh French fair of Roasted Lobster with Herb Butter (as seen on Masterchef), Mud Crab in Champagne Sauce and Festive Orange Glaze Ham to the more humble Roast Chicken and Chicken Pie. You will be spoilt for choice.

My favourite chapters are 'The Cheese Shop' and 'My Delicatessen'. You can easily see why from these pictures:

Baked Ficelles with Gruyere

Fromage Blanc with Raspberries

Prosciutto with Figs

The occasional Asian inspired recipes such as Green Chicken Curry and Chicken with Ginger and Chili Pepper show how Australian cuisine is being molded and shaped by the influence of neighbouring countries and the influx of immigrants.

Last but not least, an Australian cookbook can't be complete without a section for 'The Barbecue'. Tony Bilson tells us he first learnt to cook at the barbecue (like many Australian men). Kangaroo Sate and Whole Lobster Baked in Seaweed show us the more quirky side of him.

The first recipe I picked is this Duck a L'orange (as seen on Masterchef) because, like so many other recipes in this cookbook, it's a great French classic.

Duck a L'Orange (Breast of Muscovy Duck with Orange and Figs) Recipe
(Adapted from Tony Bilson's Fine Family Cooking)
Serves 8

Ingredients

4 muscovy duck breasts
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp chopped fresh thyme leaves
3 tbsp clarified butter

Glaze:
Juice of 1 orange
1/2 tsp grated orange rind
2 tbsp honey
2 tbsp sherry vinegar

Sauce:
3/4 cup (185 ml / 6 fl oz) duck stock (recipe follows)
2 tbsp sherry vinegar
2 tbsp cassis
1 tbsp butter

Garnish:
6 black figs, quartered
2 oranges, peeled and segments

Method

1. To make the glaze: Boil the ingredients together in a small saucepan until the quantity is reduced by one-half.
2. To cook the duck: Season the duck breasts with salt, pepper and thyme. Melt the clarified butter in a heavy frying pan or skillet over a medium heat. Place the duck breasts flesh side down in the pan. When they are well browned, turn and cook for 5 minutes on the skin side. Remove the breasts to a flat baking sheet and brush the skin with the glaze. Cook the breast under a griller (broiler) at a medium heat for another 5 minutes, then set aside in a warm place for 10 minutes.

1. To make the sauce: Deglaze the frying pan or skillet with the stock, vinegar and cassis and reduce the liquid by one-third. Pass the sauce through a fine strainer into a saucepan. Whisk the butter into the sauce.
2. To serve: Serve the duck breasts medium to medium rare. Carve into 1 cm (1/3 in) slices and arrange them in a fan shape on the plates. Spoon the warm sauce around the meat. Heat the figs and orange segments in the oven or under a griller and arrange them decoratively on the plates. Pureed spinach, sweetened with a little pear puree, make and excellent accompaniment.

Duck Stock Recipe
Makes 4 cups

Ingredients

1 kg (2 lbs) duck bones (carcass)
2 tbsp duck fat
1/2 onion, diced
1/2 carrot, diced
1 stick celery, diced
1 chopped tomato
1 tbsp tomato paste (puree)
3 thyme sprigs
1 bay leaf
2 cups (500 ml / 16 fl oz) white wine
4 cups (1 litre / 1 3/4 imp. pints) water

Method

1. In a large saucepan, heat the fat and brown the bones over a high heat. Add the vegetables and brown over a medium heat. Add the tomato paste (puree), thyme and bay leaf, and cook until the tomato begins to brown.
2. Add the wine and water and bring to the boil. Skim any scum from the surface of the stock and simmer for 1 1/2 hours. Strain the stock through a fine sieve or muslin. Cool the stock and then refrigerate it. It will keep in the refrigerator for several days and can be frozen.

Thank you to Murdoch Books for sending me the review copy.

FINE FAMILY COOKING
by Tony Bilson

"Tony Bilson's Fine Family Cooking is the kitchen companion from Australia's original master chef to the master chefs of the future. It provides home cooks with a repertoire of recipes and techniques to create restaurant-quality dishes at home. First published 15 years ago, Fine Family Cooking's recipes are as relevant now as they were then, and this kitchen classic has been used to inspire and instruct competitors in the current series of 'Masterchef Australia'."

Published May 2010 by Murdoch Books
256 pages, paperback with flaps
215 x 279mm
AU $39.95 (available on Fishpond and Booktopia)
ISBN 9781741969894